Green Your Home – Sealing Doors, Windows and other openings

I have worked my way though more than half of my list and am getting a lot closer to a more energy efficient home. This article will focus on eliminating air leakage from the home to the outside/unconditioned space. We will start at the front door and work our way around the exterior of the home.

The front door can be a huge leak factor for the home. In my earlier list, I shared that door seals and sweeps are great place to find energy leakage. Looking at my front door I saw two immediate problems that needed correction: 1. Light was visible around the door where the door seals meet with the door; 2. The door sweep is falling apart. Both are easy to correct as it only requires replacing these items. When cutting the seals to fit, be careful not to cut them too short (this is why my door seals needed replacement).

For the sweep, if you are unsure what type of sweep to purchase, the u-shaped type is universal and can be installed on any standard width door. You can also purchase sweeps and seals that install on the door frame or the face of the door. A combination of these products will suffice if you cannot find seals and sweeps that match your door configuration.

Over time, caulking around windows will begin to crack, causing a potential area for leaks. Whether your home is Energy Star certified or not, this is a common maintenance item that needs to be completed by every homeowner. Simply remove any caulk that is cracked with a razor blade (this allows for a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere) and replace with either an elastomeric latex or silicone caulk. Some touch up paint might be required depending on how cleanly you can add the caulk and how much you needed to remove.

The next source of leakage are your outlets and switches. Any electrical box on an exterior wall needs to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Because it is cost prohibitive to check the housewrap (exterior water & air barrier), as brick or siding removal is required, it is more cost effective to seal the interior of the home against air loss (if you have a water leak, consult a professional for proper correction). Two methods exist to seal these openings: 1. Caulk the electrical box to the drywall; 2. Install foam gaskets under the cover plate (both pictured here).

As a general note, it is not recommended to caulk any cover plates to the wall, electrical or HVAC. If you ever need to service that outlet, you will need to remove the cover plate. It is also not as effective as sealing to the drywall at the junction box.

The last openings are in your floors and ceilings, the HVAC outlets. At every vent, a boot passes through the floor or the drywall. Unless properly sealed, a lot of air can be lost at this location. To correctly seal these, start by removing the grill and inspect the current connection. With the grill off, you can then caulk the boot to the drywall or subfloor and replace the grill. Again, we are not trying to stop airflow around the grill, but back through the drywall or subfloor, so always seal the boot, not the grill.
When building an Energy Star/Green home, all of these methods are common construction techniques to obtain these ratings. By retrofitting your home using these methods, you are taking one step closer to a more efficient home.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them, or email me directly at: thegreendecoder@me.com.

Green Your Home – Crawl Space & Attic (Part 3)

On Monday, I inspected my crawlspace because of a mouse problem. When I was in the crawl space, I found an incomplete repair of the HVAC system. From the builder, I learned after closing there had been a problem with a duck in the crawlspace that died in the ductwork and was eventually removed and damaged items were “repaired”. When I did the inspection for the mouse problem, I found uncorrected damage, pictured here.

So, with a couple of assistants out of school for the week (my 7 and 5 year olds), we took our supplies and went under the house. Upon further inspection and preparation, we also found a disconnected duct to the utility room, an area always difficult to heat and cool since it was not getting any air. So, we set to work on the two repairs. First the hole, then the disconnected duct.

To fix the hole in the trunk line, I began by covering the entire hole with foil tape (UL 181 tape, the same type used for Energy Star Homes). With the hole covered, I wrapped the trunk line, including a previous repair, with duct insulation and completed with foil tape to secure it to the trunk line and seal off any holes/leaks.

The disconnected duct was easily repaired as well. After cutting the end of each line, the two ends fit more closely together. With the foil tape and a little maneuvering, the two lines came nicely together. As I was completing the repair, the air turned on in the house and I was able to check the reconnected line for leaks. While checking, I noticed several other ducts where the duct tape had deteriorated enough to allow air to freely flow from the seams. I resealed those with foil tape as well (if I had mastic – a sticky sealant that will seal the lines air tight – it would have been an easier fix).

After a few more tests and cleanup below the house, the crawlspace was as good as new and will be a little cooler next time I go down there.

I also completed the insulating foam on the attic stair. This will reduce the amount of air loss around this opening.

Next article will discuss indoor sealing techniques.

Green Your Home – Preparation (Part 2)

The list is complete, so it is time for a trip to my local Home Depot. I spent about an hour at the store recording items, alternatives, costs, etc. I quickly found that with less than $100 I could do most of the work that needs to be done on my home. You can also do your shopping online, if you so desire, to save the time driving to and walking around the store, although some items are not available online at HomeDepot.com.

The items I purchased are as follows:

• Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks – This is expanding foam that can be used in any openings, holes, and cracks in the exterior shell of you home. Be careful where you us it because it will expand. Great Stuff should not be used around window frames, as it will affect the opening and closing of windows by pushing on the frame. This is great for any holes not filled in from electrical or plumbing lines entering the crawl space, garage or attic. [Price: $4.98/can]
• Caulking & Sealants – I found two products I like for this. DAP makes an Elastomeric Latex sealant which will stretch with the moving and settling of you home. [Price: $3.37/Tube] You can also purchase GE Silicone II Window & Door. [Price: $5.82] Some people swear by silicone and prefer it to any other sealants on the market. It will cost a little more, but provides the peace of mind it is silicone. Personally, I prefer latex because it is easier to paint after it dries. I buy this product by the case and use it for a number of projects around the house.
• Rubber Foam Weatherseal – It comes in a number of sizes depending on the application (I purchased ¾”x5/16”x10’). This can be used to seal any doors, whether to unconditioned space or an unused room/closet which will not be heated. Simply apply to the frame where the door will close and you have a better seal against airflow. [Price: $2.88]
• Replacement Door Seals – Most entry doors have weatherstipping that can be removed and replaced. This product will breakdown overtime allowing both air and, eventually, little critters (bugs and spider) easy access to your home. [Price: 3.99/strip]
• Replacement Door Sweep – This product attaches to the bottom of your door and serves a similar purpose as the above Door Seals. Many types are available. If you know the slot configuration on the bottom of your door you can purchase a door specific replacement to match your current sweep. [Price: $8.99] There is also a U-shaped Sweep which will fit all standard doors. It attaches around the base of the door. [Price: $9.47]
• Duct Insulation – For un-insulated or damaged insulation, you can install new insulation very easily, provided you have access to the ducts. Several versions are available (I purchased foil faced 12”x2”x15’). I recommend foil faced as it provides the best insulated value. [Price: $10.97]
• UL181 Duct Tape – Different from typical duct tape, this is a foil tape specially designed to not breakdown overtime, or with heat/cold, as typical duct tape will. This product is used to seal any seams, gaps or tears in duct lines. [Price: $14.75/Roll]
• Air Filters – Replacement filters are important to the overall performance of your system. I will not go into great detail here as filters can be a discussion all of there own.

Your overall cost will vary depending on how much you purchase and what you need for your home. The associates at Home Depot were very helpful, so when in doubt ask for assistance.

Now the work can begin. Stay tuned as I bring you pictures, tips and tricks to using these products effectively in Greening your Home.

Greener methods to winterize your home

Preparing for winter can mean a number of things. For some it is pulling out your winter clothes and determining what you need to buy to fix your wardrobe for the season. For those that are financially fortunate, winter means closing up your home and migrating south for the winter. For the rest of us, it is preparing our home, landscaping and property to weather the winter months ahead. The following list is some ideas to winterize your home and property for the months ahead:

Winterize your yard –

• Plant for the spring – Many spring flowers require planting in the fall so they will beautify your yard in the spring. Visit your local Nursery or home improvement center for more information and types for planning a beautiful yard in the spring.
• Prepare you lawn for winter – It is getting late in the season to over-seed with a winter grass, like rye. If you still plan to do so, visit your local garden center to learn the best techniques to be successful. Otherwise, be sure to remove any weeds before the end of the season to help prevent more weeds in the spring. Aerating your lawn is still a great idea to allow more moisture into the ground in the spring. For more tips on lawn care visit: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/lawns/a/fall_lawns.htm
• Hoses and other watering tools – All hoses should be disconnected from the hose bib, drained and stored for the winter. If you do not have frost-free faucets, protect your pipes from freezing through a shut-off valve or hose-bib cover.
• Winterize sprinkler system – Sprinklers are not buried deep enough to withstand freezing temperatures during the winter. Contact a reputable landscaper in your area to flush the lines with are and shut-off valves to prevent damage to pipes through the winter.
• Fertilizers – There are many opinions on fertilizing for the winter. If you are using a chemical fertilizer, use a balanced formula to help your lawn recover in the spring. Organic fertilizers are becoming more readily available and are a great option if you want to protect your family from harmful chemicals. Most organics are specified for the spring or fall. Check with your local nursery, or order from one of many sources online. (http://www.groworganic.com/browse_fertilizer.html)
• More tips for your yard: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/lawns/a/fall_lawn_care.htm

Check your HVAC System – Typically overlooked by many (I have been guilty of this in the past), getting a system check on your furnace can ensure a warm home for the winter. The cost is minimal, $100-150 for your home and the value is huge. Many companies offer maintenance agreements that cover both a spring and fall checkup (i.e: http://www.greentrucks.com/max-maintenance.html). Routine maintenance can ensure your system is working properly and keep you warm throughout the winter. Be sure to change your filters each month – this not only improves air quality, but uses less electricity as your fans will not have to work as hard to move the air.

Install a programmable thermostats – Most homes are vacant for the majority of the day. You can purchase inexpensive programmable thermostats at any hardware store and program the system to setback when you are routinely away from home, during the day and on weekends. Honeywell offers an online wizard to help you program some thermostat models: http://yourhome.honeywell.com/yourhome/Applications/Wizard/Wizard.aspx. Set the thermostat low if you do not use most rooms in your home and use efficient space heaters or fireplaces to stay heat the rooms you use to a more comfortable level. (Visit: http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Products/Thermostats/Default.htm for thermostats or http://www.edenpurestore.com/ or http://www.vornado.com/ for more information on space heaters)

Check doors and windows for cracked caulking and leaks – Doors and windows are the primary sources of heat loss in the winter. Look for gaps around windows where caulking has cracked allowing air to enter and escape the home. Look at the weather-stripping (sides, top and the sweep below) on your doors and replace it if it allows air and light to pass through. Keeping blinds and curtains open during the day, to allow the sun to heat your home, and closed at night to insulate from the cold will make a big difference in your comfort and energy bills. Visit the Home Depot for more information: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?pn=SF_MS_KH_Seal_Your_Home&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053