Sustainable Solutions

As more research and study continues on the environmental front, the larger solution to many problems we face is sustainability. In basic terms, sustainable products are items that have a long life and do not require replacement on a schedule. The definition can also be expanded to items, once used for a time period, which can be easily converted to another product or use, as communicated in Cradle to Cradle, by William McDonough & Michael Braungart.

Residential construction has been through periods of very sustainable and very disposable construction practices. As a college student, I worked for a remodeler in Pittsburgh, PA for a summer. One of our projects was a 100 year old renovation and addition. The craftsmanship of the original home was phenomenal. While modern conveniences of air conditioning, kitchen appliances and bath upgrades had been added, the original structure stood on it own. Very little had been replaced, as the home had the original windows, exterior cladding, floors and plumbing fixtures throughout the home.

Today, builders continue to work towards more sustainable structures. Treated wood is used to prevent termite and rot issues. Better water intrusion prevention systems are employed as a best practice for construction. Unfortunately, some areas of the home still need some work, especially on entry-level homes. Many consumers are guilty of contributing to the problem when they say, “Oh, I’ll just replace that when I find what I like” or “ It will last until I can find something better”.

Below, I have broken down a list of the most common “disposable” products still installed by builders on a regular basis. Most of these have a viable alternative, relatively low in cost, yet more sustainable.

• Toilet Seats – The standard seat installed by a builder is a molded wood, high gloss finish toilet seat. At first glance, the seat is fine. But two years later, even with a clean freak (my wife hates a dirty toilet), the seat is stained, the finish on the bottom is deteriorating and the only solution is to replace the seat. Cost to upgrade to a Kohler plastic seat is about $7/seat retail. A small price to pay for longevity.
• Dishwashers – Builders are known for the cheapest dishwashers on the market. A standard entry line is loud, inefficient and requires additional rinsing and rewashing of dishes. For a small upgrade of $40-50, these inefficient models can be replaced by a more efficient, quieter model. Options are often offered, however builders should be encouraged to eliminate non-performing models for better units.
• Carpet – As a general rule, the actual carpet in any home will have to be replaced at some point. However, on the low end, ensuring the right carpet is installed will provide long life to that particular carpet. Nylon 6, a polyester fiber used in some carpets, has endless recycling capabilities. This fiber, compared to others, can be recycled again and again without degrading the original material. Even on the low end, this fiber is affordable and can provide consumers the convenience of changing carpet as the needs of your family changes, without contributing to landfills.
• Lighting – Another area where builders are prone to find the least expensive items which homeowners can replace later; I was guilty of this early in my career. As a consumer, you will find little success changing this trend in the near future. However, if you are planning to change out fixture upon occupancy, ask you builder to cap the fixture location instead of installing a disposable fixture. If overhead lighting will not be used, ask for a switched outlet for lamp lighting control. Also, request ENERGY STAR lighting options to replace standard fixtures.

As a general rule, Homebuilders are slow to change to the latest practices and technologies. The consumer mentality of “I’ll fix it later” needs to be changed to a request for alternatives. To change the trend from disposable to sustainable construction requires feedback to the builder so they know how to improve products and meet consumer demands for quality.

Define your Shade – Energy Efficiency

Let’s begin by defining efficiency. This is a term that will surface throughout our discussion on green and understanding what it means will help facilitate more meaningful discussion.

Efficiency is a measurement of the amount of output given a certain amount of input. To increase efficiency, you must find a way to do more with less. All of us know we have 24 hours each day with which to live our lives. Some days we are very efficient and accomplish a great deal of work or output. Other days, we sit on the couch, watch the ballgame and accomplish very little. Both days had the same input, 24 hours, but one day was filled with work and the other was not. Organizational tools can increase our efficiency as well.

In terms of energy efficiency, there is a fair amount of debate as to what truly defines energy efficiency and how can you do the same tasks using less electricity. Don’t confuse efficiency with conservation. Conservation is the act of turning things off or just not using electricity. Important, but not the discussion today. Conservation suggests you live without something, no lights, no water, and no additional features. Efficiency is doing the same things you have always done, only use less. An example is driving an inefficient car less or driving a hybrid vehicle, conservation and efficiency, respectively.

Replacing incandescent lighting is one-way builders can increase the efficiency of their home. High efficacy lighting still provides light, and in most cases the same light, using a lot less electricity. Energy Star rated appliances still allow the consumer to wash clothing, refrigerate food, and clean the dishes. The appliances work, for the most part, like any other inefficient model. The savings comes by completing the same task with less.

A big obstacle many builders face in selling green is the idea that it requires you to sacrifice (or conserve) the comforts you are accustomed to having in your home. Some choose to take efficiency to that level, but others choose better items for their home. The follow list is examples of energy efficient features:

• High Efficacy Lighting (Fluorescent or LED lighting)
• Higher R-value Insulation
• Housewrap
• ENERGY STAR Appliances/Furnace/Windows
• Sealants, Weatherstripping and Caulks to reduces leaks
• Dimmers and Sensors for Lighting
• Geo-Thermal Heat

As builders, a number of options are available to meet the requirements of a green program. Consumers can rest assured knowing there are options and if one product does not meet their needs, there are alternatives to ensure an energy efficient home without compromising your lifestyle.

Shades of Green

Please visit my article posted on EcoHome Magazine. Thank to @KTOM17(twitter for you non-tweets) for all her help on getting this article on their site. I will post follow-ups to this article in the future here on my blog.

http://www.ecohomemagazine.com/news/guest-commentary-shades-of-green.aspx

Green Your Home – Sealing Doors, Windows and other openings

I have worked my way though more than half of my list and am getting a lot closer to a more energy efficient home. This article will focus on eliminating air leakage from the home to the outside/unconditioned space. We will start at the front door and work our way around the exterior of the home.

The front door can be a huge leak factor for the home. In my earlier list, I shared that door seals and sweeps are great place to find energy leakage. Looking at my front door I saw two immediate problems that needed correction: 1. Light was visible around the door where the door seals meet with the door; 2. The door sweep is falling apart. Both are easy to correct as it only requires replacing these items. When cutting the seals to fit, be careful not to cut them too short (this is why my door seals needed replacement).

For the sweep, if you are unsure what type of sweep to purchase, the u-shaped type is universal and can be installed on any standard width door. You can also purchase sweeps and seals that install on the door frame or the face of the door. A combination of these products will suffice if you cannot find seals and sweeps that match your door configuration.

Over time, caulking around windows will begin to crack, causing a potential area for leaks. Whether your home is Energy Star certified or not, this is a common maintenance item that needs to be completed by every homeowner. Simply remove any caulk that is cracked with a razor blade (this allows for a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere) and replace with either an elastomeric latex or silicone caulk. Some touch up paint might be required depending on how cleanly you can add the caulk and how much you needed to remove.

The next source of leakage are your outlets and switches. Any electrical box on an exterior wall needs to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Because it is cost prohibitive to check the housewrap (exterior water & air barrier), as brick or siding removal is required, it is more cost effective to seal the interior of the home against air loss (if you have a water leak, consult a professional for proper correction). Two methods exist to seal these openings: 1. Caulk the electrical box to the drywall; 2. Install foam gaskets under the cover plate (both pictured here).

As a general note, it is not recommended to caulk any cover plates to the wall, electrical or HVAC. If you ever need to service that outlet, you will need to remove the cover plate. It is also not as effective as sealing to the drywall at the junction box.

The last openings are in your floors and ceilings, the HVAC outlets. At every vent, a boot passes through the floor or the drywall. Unless properly sealed, a lot of air can be lost at this location. To correctly seal these, start by removing the grill and inspect the current connection. With the grill off, you can then caulk the boot to the drywall or subfloor and replace the grill. Again, we are not trying to stop airflow around the grill, but back through the drywall or subfloor, so always seal the boot, not the grill.
When building an Energy Star/Green home, all of these methods are common construction techniques to obtain these ratings. By retrofitting your home using these methods, you are taking one step closer to a more efficient home.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them, or email me directly at: thegreendecoder@me.com.

Green Your Home – Crawl Space & Attic (Part 3)

On Monday, I inspected my crawlspace because of a mouse problem. When I was in the crawl space, I found an incomplete repair of the HVAC system. From the builder, I learned after closing there had been a problem with a duck in the crawlspace that died in the ductwork and was eventually removed and damaged items were “repaired”. When I did the inspection for the mouse problem, I found uncorrected damage, pictured here.

So, with a couple of assistants out of school for the week (my 7 and 5 year olds), we took our supplies and went under the house. Upon further inspection and preparation, we also found a disconnected duct to the utility room, an area always difficult to heat and cool since it was not getting any air. So, we set to work on the two repairs. First the hole, then the disconnected duct.

To fix the hole in the trunk line, I began by covering the entire hole with foil tape (UL 181 tape, the same type used for Energy Star Homes). With the hole covered, I wrapped the trunk line, including a previous repair, with duct insulation and completed with foil tape to secure it to the trunk line and seal off any holes/leaks.

The disconnected duct was easily repaired as well. After cutting the end of each line, the two ends fit more closely together. With the foil tape and a little maneuvering, the two lines came nicely together. As I was completing the repair, the air turned on in the house and I was able to check the reconnected line for leaks. While checking, I noticed several other ducts where the duct tape had deteriorated enough to allow air to freely flow from the seams. I resealed those with foil tape as well (if I had mastic – a sticky sealant that will seal the lines air tight – it would have been an easier fix).

After a few more tests and cleanup below the house, the crawlspace was as good as new and will be a little cooler next time I go down there.

I also completed the insulating foam on the attic stair. This will reduce the amount of air loss around this opening.

Next article will discuss indoor sealing techniques.

Green Your Home - The Audit (Part 1)

A couple of weeks ago, I shared some tips to prepare your home and property for the winter. As I worked through some of those steps on my own home, I realized doing a “green inspection” on my home would help identify keys areas to help me go green. So, I set to work making a list of items that affect the energy efficiency of my home, without completely rebuilding or breaking the bank.

This is the first article in a series. Over the next few posts, I will share with you my own experience of inspecting, planning and completing steps to make my home more energy, resource and water efficient. I will also share the cost of doing the work yourself, purchasing the products at Home Depot, not through construction industry contacts. The Home Depot has been very beneficial in my research, as shown in other posts.

To the list, and steps taken to make that list.

1. Front Door Insulation – While my front door could be better, that is an expense I am not prepared for today. However, standing back and looking around the door, I realized I could see small areas of light where the weather-strip was damaged, missing or cut short.
2. Outlets and Switches – I have about 40 switches and outlets on the exterior walls of my home. On cold nights, these electrical outlets are perceptible colder then the rest of the wall and allow energy loss.
3. Windows – While most of my windows are sealed fairly well, there are areas around several windows where the caulking has cracked and needs to be replaced.
4. HVAC Ducts & Openings – In both the floors and ceilings, the duct boots are not sealed to the plywood or the drywall. Upon further inspection, some ductwork is need of re-sealing in the attic and crawlspace.
5. Attic Access – There is no weather-stripping or other seals in place to reduce air-leakage at the access.
6. Filters – My filters are in much need of replacement.
7. Toilets & Faucets – All toilet tanks are filling above the fill line and utilizing more water then needed. Faucets and showerheads are standard fixtures.
8. Exhaust Fans – Fans are installed, but not working properly or drawing enough air to properly ventilate bathrooms following a shower.

For informational purposes, several energy saving items have already been built into my home or replaced previous to this audit. Most of the incandescent lights have already been replaced. Programmable thermostats are also in use to save energy in heating and cooling. Where applicable, ENERGY STAR appliances are also installed in the home.