Define Your Shade – Indoor Air Quality

Last evening, I attending an interesting session with my local chapter of the USGBC. The meeting was an introductory session on LEED for Homes with a great deal of time spent discussing Indoor Air Quality.

Improving indoor air quality is important to the overall health of the occupants. Whether at home, work, church or shopping, the air we breath indoors is often more detrimental to our health because of these wonderfully tight structures that trap all the contaminates, dust, and bacteria inside. Our challenge is to find effective ways to prevent contaminate infiltration and to filter and remove any particulates that end up indoors.

This can be done in a number of ways, but here are a few options:

Burning Fuels – Unless you are in an all electric home (which is one way to guarantee improved air quality), location and venting of gas fired appliances is critical to indoor air quality. Keep all furnaces and indoor air handlers out of the garage. Any leaks in the ductwork is a potential for car exhaust to enter the system an eventually the home. Install water heaters in the garage when possible. If a furnace or water heater must be installed in conditioned space, place it in a sealed closet with fresh air vents and combustion air vents.

Fireplaces – Wood burning fireplaces can be very inefficient. Installing doors, additional flue dampers, and better seals on the unit will reduce air loss to the outsides as well as reducing smoke and fumes from infiltrating the home. All gas fireplaces should be sealed units, vented to the outside, to prevent adverse affects on you and your family. The best case scenario is to just not install one if it will not be used.

HVAC Installation – While sealing the ducts and plenums is typically talked about in energy efficiency, it is also vital to indoor air quality. Without properly sealed ducts, the air handler will inevitably draw air from the crawl space, attic, floor system or other unconditioned space into the air you breath. A commonly missed area is the return air duct, especially if building cavities are lined to act as the duct. Ensure proper sealing of all HVAC components.

Filters – Filters are important to the system. The most important advice on filters is simple, replace/clean them regularly. Filters can be an entire discussion on their own and will be covered in another article.

Fans & Exhaust – Removing air from the house is also important. This can be as simple as a 50cfm fan in each bathroom or as complicated as a whole house fan on automatic timers or a humidistat. If fresh air is added to the house, venting air from the house is vital as well. Fans should always be run after showers, baths or other excessive use of hot water.

Chemicals – Chemical usage can also affect the air quality. During construction, utilizing products that have no noxious chemicals or low/no VOC sealant/paint. Following closing, encourage homeowners to find alternatives to bleach, ammonia and other chemical based cleaners.

This list is in no way all-inclusive, but it does give you some ideas where to start. As part of a green program, there are many affordable options to ensure better air quality. However, if the homeowner does not use the features, they will do little to improve the overall home health. Many innovative product reviews to come in the near future on this blog, so stay tuned.

Green Your Home – Appliances & Maintenance

I finished up a few lingering items this weekend. Some would be considered typical maintenance items, and others are bigger items. So, without further adieu.

About 2 weeks ago, my wife asked me about the warranty on our dryer. It was taking progressively longer and longer to completely dry a load of clothes. So, this past weekend, I pulled out the dryer to check the vent pipe. With the dryer out and the pipe disconnect, I quickly saw the problem: a blocked vent.

This is an issue for several reasons.

• First, it is a fire hazard. Lint in the pipe prevents hot exhaust from escaping and can potentially heat up and catch fire.
• Second, it reduces the efficiency of the dryer and can take 2-3 times longer to dry clothes, utilizing a lot more energy.
• Third, the long term effects on the dryer could cause damage to internal parts and shorten the lifespan of the dryer.

To correct the problem, I began by disconnecting the pipe from the wall outlet. The outlet promptly fell out of the wall, indicating the pipe was not properly installed in the first place. So, I removed the pipe and cleaned out the cover and the surrounding wall cavity. Replacing the items was a little more complicated.

For starters, with the dryer moved, I would probably have been divorced if I didn’t thoroughly clean the area behind the dryer before replacing it. So, a tip for the married gentlemen out there, completely remove old lint, socks, etc that have fallen behind the washer & dryer. Next, using UL181 foil tape, make any repairs to the outlet to ensure a proper seal. Reconnect both ends of the pipe and move the dryer back into place. If you have a side outlet, like the picture, I recommend installing a 90 at the dryer outlet instead of turning the flexible pipe.

The water heater in your home, unless you have upgraded to a tankless alternative, should be maintained once a year. Typically, this consists of connecting a hose to the spigot, located and bottom of the tank, and draining the tank. As water is heated, minerals free themselves from the water molecules and collect at the bottom of the tank. Over time, this can reduce the efficiency of the heating element and can reduce the amount of water heated in the tank.

By draining the tank, you allow the minerals to leave the tank and maintain efficiency. If you are concerned about the water you are wasting, drain it at a time of year when you can allow the tank to cool off and use the water on plants in the yard. You can also use this time to add insulation to the tank to reduce heat lose.

Replacing HVAC filters is a vital part of maintaining your furnace and A/C system. There are many options as to the filters you can purchase. More efficient filters can cause your blower to work to hard, reducing the efficiency of the fan. Less efficient filters will work against indoor air quality. There are also washable filters that do not have to be replaced, just washed as needed.

Replace filters per the packaging. More efficient filters boast a longer life. Typical filters should be replaced every 30 days. Washable filters should be washed monthly, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. If your filter cover starts to show signs of dust build-up, it has probably been to long since you replaced it.

Green Your Home – Crawl Space & Attic (Part 3)

On Monday, I inspected my crawlspace because of a mouse problem. When I was in the crawl space, I found an incomplete repair of the HVAC system. From the builder, I learned after closing there had been a problem with a duck in the crawlspace that died in the ductwork and was eventually removed and damaged items were “repaired”. When I did the inspection for the mouse problem, I found uncorrected damage, pictured here.

So, with a couple of assistants out of school for the week (my 7 and 5 year olds), we took our supplies and went under the house. Upon further inspection and preparation, we also found a disconnected duct to the utility room, an area always difficult to heat and cool since it was not getting any air. So, we set to work on the two repairs. First the hole, then the disconnected duct.

To fix the hole in the trunk line, I began by covering the entire hole with foil tape (UL 181 tape, the same type used for Energy Star Homes). With the hole covered, I wrapped the trunk line, including a previous repair, with duct insulation and completed with foil tape to secure it to the trunk line and seal off any holes/leaks.

The disconnected duct was easily repaired as well. After cutting the end of each line, the two ends fit more closely together. With the foil tape and a little maneuvering, the two lines came nicely together. As I was completing the repair, the air turned on in the house and I was able to check the reconnected line for leaks. While checking, I noticed several other ducts where the duct tape had deteriorated enough to allow air to freely flow from the seams. I resealed those with foil tape as well (if I had mastic – a sticky sealant that will seal the lines air tight – it would have been an easier fix).

After a few more tests and cleanup below the house, the crawlspace was as good as new and will be a little cooler next time I go down there.

I also completed the insulating foam on the attic stair. This will reduce the amount of air loss around this opening.

Next article will discuss indoor sealing techniques.

Green Your Home – Preparation (Part 2)

The list is complete, so it is time for a trip to my local Home Depot. I spent about an hour at the store recording items, alternatives, costs, etc. I quickly found that with less than $100 I could do most of the work that needs to be done on my home. You can also do your shopping online, if you so desire, to save the time driving to and walking around the store, although some items are not available online at HomeDepot.com.

The items I purchased are as follows:

• Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks – This is expanding foam that can be used in any openings, holes, and cracks in the exterior shell of you home. Be careful where you us it because it will expand. Great Stuff should not be used around window frames, as it will affect the opening and closing of windows by pushing on the frame. This is great for any holes not filled in from electrical or plumbing lines entering the crawl space, garage or attic. [Price: $4.98/can]
• Caulking & Sealants – I found two products I like for this. DAP makes an Elastomeric Latex sealant which will stretch with the moving and settling of you home. [Price: $3.37/Tube] You can also purchase GE Silicone II Window & Door. [Price: $5.82] Some people swear by silicone and prefer it to any other sealants on the market. It will cost a little more, but provides the peace of mind it is silicone. Personally, I prefer latex because it is easier to paint after it dries. I buy this product by the case and use it for a number of projects around the house.
• Rubber Foam Weatherseal – It comes in a number of sizes depending on the application (I purchased ¾”x5/16”x10’). This can be used to seal any doors, whether to unconditioned space or an unused room/closet which will not be heated. Simply apply to the frame where the door will close and you have a better seal against airflow. [Price: $2.88]
• Replacement Door Seals – Most entry doors have weatherstipping that can be removed and replaced. This product will breakdown overtime allowing both air and, eventually, little critters (bugs and spider) easy access to your home. [Price: 3.99/strip]
• Replacement Door Sweep – This product attaches to the bottom of your door and serves a similar purpose as the above Door Seals. Many types are available. If you know the slot configuration on the bottom of your door you can purchase a door specific replacement to match your current sweep. [Price: $8.99] There is also a U-shaped Sweep which will fit all standard doors. It attaches around the base of the door. [Price: $9.47]
• Duct Insulation – For un-insulated or damaged insulation, you can install new insulation very easily, provided you have access to the ducts. Several versions are available (I purchased foil faced 12”x2”x15’). I recommend foil faced as it provides the best insulated value. [Price: $10.97]
• UL181 Duct Tape – Different from typical duct tape, this is a foil tape specially designed to not breakdown overtime, or with heat/cold, as typical duct tape will. This product is used to seal any seams, gaps or tears in duct lines. [Price: $14.75/Roll]
• Air Filters – Replacement filters are important to the overall performance of your system. I will not go into great detail here as filters can be a discussion all of there own.

Your overall cost will vary depending on how much you purchase and what you need for your home. The associates at Home Depot were very helpful, so when in doubt ask for assistance.

Now the work can begin. Stay tuned as I bring you pictures, tips and tricks to using these products effectively in Greening your Home.

Green Your Home - The Audit (Part 1)

A couple of weeks ago, I shared some tips to prepare your home and property for the winter. As I worked through some of those steps on my own home, I realized doing a “green inspection” on my home would help identify keys areas to help me go green. So, I set to work making a list of items that affect the energy efficiency of my home, without completely rebuilding or breaking the bank.

This is the first article in a series. Over the next few posts, I will share with you my own experience of inspecting, planning and completing steps to make my home more energy, resource and water efficient. I will also share the cost of doing the work yourself, purchasing the products at Home Depot, not through construction industry contacts. The Home Depot has been very beneficial in my research, as shown in other posts.

To the list, and steps taken to make that list.

1. Front Door Insulation – While my front door could be better, that is an expense I am not prepared for today. However, standing back and looking around the door, I realized I could see small areas of light where the weather-strip was damaged, missing or cut short.
2. Outlets and Switches – I have about 40 switches and outlets on the exterior walls of my home. On cold nights, these electrical outlets are perceptible colder then the rest of the wall and allow energy loss.
3. Windows – While most of my windows are sealed fairly well, there are areas around several windows where the caulking has cracked and needs to be replaced.
4. HVAC Ducts & Openings – In both the floors and ceilings, the duct boots are not sealed to the plywood or the drywall. Upon further inspection, some ductwork is need of re-sealing in the attic and crawlspace.
5. Attic Access – There is no weather-stripping or other seals in place to reduce air-leakage at the access.
6. Filters – My filters are in much need of replacement.
7. Toilets & Faucets – All toilet tanks are filling above the fill line and utilizing more water then needed. Faucets and showerheads are standard fixtures.
8. Exhaust Fans – Fans are installed, but not working properly or drawing enough air to properly ventilate bathrooms following a shower.

For informational purposes, several energy saving items have already been built into my home or replaced previous to this audit. Most of the incandescent lights have already been replaced. Programmable thermostats are also in use to save energy in heating and cooling. Where applicable, ENERGY STAR appliances are also installed in the home.

Greener methods to winterize your home

Preparing for winter can mean a number of things. For some it is pulling out your winter clothes and determining what you need to buy to fix your wardrobe for the season. For those that are financially fortunate, winter means closing up your home and migrating south for the winter. For the rest of us, it is preparing our home, landscaping and property to weather the winter months ahead. The following list is some ideas to winterize your home and property for the months ahead:

Winterize your yard –

• Plant for the spring – Many spring flowers require planting in the fall so they will beautify your yard in the spring. Visit your local Nursery or home improvement center for more information and types for planning a beautiful yard in the spring.
• Prepare you lawn for winter – It is getting late in the season to over-seed with a winter grass, like rye. If you still plan to do so, visit your local garden center to learn the best techniques to be successful. Otherwise, be sure to remove any weeds before the end of the season to help prevent more weeds in the spring. Aerating your lawn is still a great idea to allow more moisture into the ground in the spring. For more tips on lawn care visit: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/lawns/a/fall_lawns.htm
• Hoses and other watering tools – All hoses should be disconnected from the hose bib, drained and stored for the winter. If you do not have frost-free faucets, protect your pipes from freezing through a shut-off valve or hose-bib cover.
• Winterize sprinkler system – Sprinklers are not buried deep enough to withstand freezing temperatures during the winter. Contact a reputable landscaper in your area to flush the lines with are and shut-off valves to prevent damage to pipes through the winter.
• Fertilizers – There are many opinions on fertilizing for the winter. If you are using a chemical fertilizer, use a balanced formula to help your lawn recover in the spring. Organic fertilizers are becoming more readily available and are a great option if you want to protect your family from harmful chemicals. Most organics are specified for the spring or fall. Check with your local nursery, or order from one of many sources online. (http://www.groworganic.com/browse_fertilizer.html)
• More tips for your yard: http://landscaping.about.com/cs/lawns/a/fall_lawn_care.htm

Check your HVAC System – Typically overlooked by many (I have been guilty of this in the past), getting a system check on your furnace can ensure a warm home for the winter. The cost is minimal, $100-150 for your home and the value is huge. Many companies offer maintenance agreements that cover both a spring and fall checkup (i.e: http://www.greentrucks.com/max-maintenance.html). Routine maintenance can ensure your system is working properly and keep you warm throughout the winter. Be sure to change your filters each month – this not only improves air quality, but uses less electricity as your fans will not have to work as hard to move the air.

Install a programmable thermostats – Most homes are vacant for the majority of the day. You can purchase inexpensive programmable thermostats at any hardware store and program the system to setback when you are routinely away from home, during the day and on weekends. Honeywell offers an online wizard to help you program some thermostat models: http://yourhome.honeywell.com/yourhome/Applications/Wizard/Wizard.aspx. Set the thermostat low if you do not use most rooms in your home and use efficient space heaters or fireplaces to stay heat the rooms you use to a more comfortable level. (Visit: http://yourhome.honeywell.com/Consumer/Cultures/en-US/Products/Thermostats/Default.htm for thermostats or http://www.edenpurestore.com/ or http://www.vornado.com/ for more information on space heaters)

Check doors and windows for cracked caulking and leaks – Doors and windows are the primary sources of heat loss in the winter. Look for gaps around windows where caulking has cracked allowing air to enter and escape the home. Look at the weather-stripping (sides, top and the sweep below) on your doors and replace it if it allows air and light to pass through. Keeping blinds and curtains open during the day, to allow the sun to heat your home, and closed at night to insulate from the cold will make a big difference in your comfort and energy bills. Visit the Home Depot for more information: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentView?pn=SF_MS_KH_Seal_Your_Home&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053