Define your Shade – Energy Efficiency

Let’s begin by defining efficiency. This is a term that will surface throughout our discussion on green and understanding what it means will help facilitate more meaningful discussion.

Efficiency is a measurement of the amount of output given a certain amount of input. To increase efficiency, you must find a way to do more with less. All of us know we have 24 hours each day with which to live our lives. Some days we are very efficient and accomplish a great deal of work or output. Other days, we sit on the couch, watch the ballgame and accomplish very little. Both days had the same input, 24 hours, but one day was filled with work and the other was not. Organizational tools can increase our efficiency as well.

In terms of energy efficiency, there is a fair amount of debate as to what truly defines energy efficiency and how can you do the same tasks using less electricity. Don’t confuse efficiency with conservation. Conservation is the act of turning things off or just not using electricity. Important, but not the discussion today. Conservation suggests you live without something, no lights, no water, and no additional features. Efficiency is doing the same things you have always done, only use less. An example is driving an inefficient car less or driving a hybrid vehicle, conservation and efficiency, respectively.

Replacing incandescent lighting is one-way builders can increase the efficiency of their home. High efficacy lighting still provides light, and in most cases the same light, using a lot less electricity. Energy Star rated appliances still allow the consumer to wash clothing, refrigerate food, and clean the dishes. The appliances work, for the most part, like any other inefficient model. The savings comes by completing the same task with less.

A big obstacle many builders face in selling green is the idea that it requires you to sacrifice (or conserve) the comforts you are accustomed to having in your home. Some choose to take efficiency to that level, but others choose better items for their home. The follow list is examples of energy efficient features:

• High Efficacy Lighting (Fluorescent or LED lighting)
• Higher R-value Insulation
• Housewrap
• ENERGY STAR Appliances/Furnace/Windows
• Sealants, Weatherstripping and Caulks to reduces leaks
• Dimmers and Sensors for Lighting
• Geo-Thermal Heat

As builders, a number of options are available to meet the requirements of a green program. Consumers can rest assured knowing there are options and if one product does not meet their needs, there are alternatives to ensure an energy efficient home without compromising your lifestyle.

Green Your Home – Sealing Doors, Windows and other openings

I have worked my way though more than half of my list and am getting a lot closer to a more energy efficient home. This article will focus on eliminating air leakage from the home to the outside/unconditioned space. We will start at the front door and work our way around the exterior of the home.

The front door can be a huge leak factor for the home. In my earlier list, I shared that door seals and sweeps are great place to find energy leakage. Looking at my front door I saw two immediate problems that needed correction: 1. Light was visible around the door where the door seals meet with the door; 2. The door sweep is falling apart. Both are easy to correct as it only requires replacing these items. When cutting the seals to fit, be careful not to cut them too short (this is why my door seals needed replacement).

For the sweep, if you are unsure what type of sweep to purchase, the u-shaped type is universal and can be installed on any standard width door. You can also purchase sweeps and seals that install on the door frame or the face of the door. A combination of these products will suffice if you cannot find seals and sweeps that match your door configuration.

Over time, caulking around windows will begin to crack, causing a potential area for leaks. Whether your home is Energy Star certified or not, this is a common maintenance item that needs to be completed by every homeowner. Simply remove any caulk that is cracked with a razor blade (this allows for a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere) and replace with either an elastomeric latex or silicone caulk. Some touch up paint might be required depending on how cleanly you can add the caulk and how much you needed to remove.

The next source of leakage are your outlets and switches. Any electrical box on an exterior wall needs to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Because it is cost prohibitive to check the housewrap (exterior water & air barrier), as brick or siding removal is required, it is more cost effective to seal the interior of the home against air loss (if you have a water leak, consult a professional for proper correction). Two methods exist to seal these openings: 1. Caulk the electrical box to the drywall; 2. Install foam gaskets under the cover plate (both pictured here).

As a general note, it is not recommended to caulk any cover plates to the wall, electrical or HVAC. If you ever need to service that outlet, you will need to remove the cover plate. It is also not as effective as sealing to the drywall at the junction box.

The last openings are in your floors and ceilings, the HVAC outlets. At every vent, a boot passes through the floor or the drywall. Unless properly sealed, a lot of air can be lost at this location. To correctly seal these, start by removing the grill and inspect the current connection. With the grill off, you can then caulk the boot to the drywall or subfloor and replace the grill. Again, we are not trying to stop airflow around the grill, but back through the drywall or subfloor, so always seal the boot, not the grill.
When building an Energy Star/Green home, all of these methods are common construction techniques to obtain these ratings. By retrofitting your home using these methods, you are taking one step closer to a more efficient home.

If you have any questions or comments, please post them, or email me directly at: thegreendecoder@me.com.

Green Your Home – Preparation (Part 2)

The list is complete, so it is time for a trip to my local Home Depot. I spent about an hour at the store recording items, alternatives, costs, etc. I quickly found that with less than $100 I could do most of the work that needs to be done on my home. You can also do your shopping online, if you so desire, to save the time driving to and walking around the store, although some items are not available online at HomeDepot.com.

The items I purchased are as follows:

• Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks – This is expanding foam that can be used in any openings, holes, and cracks in the exterior shell of you home. Be careful where you us it because it will expand. Great Stuff should not be used around window frames, as it will affect the opening and closing of windows by pushing on the frame. This is great for any holes not filled in from electrical or plumbing lines entering the crawl space, garage or attic. [Price: $4.98/can]
• Caulking & Sealants – I found two products I like for this. DAP makes an Elastomeric Latex sealant which will stretch with the moving and settling of you home. [Price: $3.37/Tube] You can also purchase GE Silicone II Window & Door. [Price: $5.82] Some people swear by silicone and prefer it to any other sealants on the market. It will cost a little more, but provides the peace of mind it is silicone. Personally, I prefer latex because it is easier to paint after it dries. I buy this product by the case and use it for a number of projects around the house.
• Rubber Foam Weatherseal – It comes in a number of sizes depending on the application (I purchased ¾”x5/16”x10’). This can be used to seal any doors, whether to unconditioned space or an unused room/closet which will not be heated. Simply apply to the frame where the door will close and you have a better seal against airflow. [Price: $2.88]
• Replacement Door Seals – Most entry doors have weatherstipping that can be removed and replaced. This product will breakdown overtime allowing both air and, eventually, little critters (bugs and spider) easy access to your home. [Price: 3.99/strip]
• Replacement Door Sweep – This product attaches to the bottom of your door and serves a similar purpose as the above Door Seals. Many types are available. If you know the slot configuration on the bottom of your door you can purchase a door specific replacement to match your current sweep. [Price: $8.99] There is also a U-shaped Sweep which will fit all standard doors. It attaches around the base of the door. [Price: $9.47]
• Duct Insulation – For un-insulated or damaged insulation, you can install new insulation very easily, provided you have access to the ducts. Several versions are available (I purchased foil faced 12”x2”x15’). I recommend foil faced as it provides the best insulated value. [Price: $10.97]
• UL181 Duct Tape – Different from typical duct tape, this is a foil tape specially designed to not breakdown overtime, or with heat/cold, as typical duct tape will. This product is used to seal any seams, gaps or tears in duct lines. [Price: $14.75/Roll]
• Air Filters – Replacement filters are important to the overall performance of your system. I will not go into great detail here as filters can be a discussion all of there own.

Your overall cost will vary depending on how much you purchase and what you need for your home. The associates at Home Depot were very helpful, so when in doubt ask for assistance.

Now the work can begin. Stay tuned as I bring you pictures, tips and tricks to using these products effectively in Greening your Home.