Last evening, I attending an interesting session with my local chapter of the USGBC. The meeting was an introductory session on LEED for Homes with a great deal of time spent discussing Indoor Air Quality.
Improving indoor air quality is important to the overall health of the occupants. Whether at home, work, church or shopping, the air we breath indoors is often more detrimental to our health because of these wonderfully tight structures that trap all the contaminates, dust, and bacteria inside. Our challenge is to find effective ways to prevent contaminate infiltration and to filter and remove any particulates that end up indoors.
This can be done in a number of ways, but here are a few options:
Burning Fuels – Unless you are in an all electric home (which is one way to guarantee improved air quality), location and venting of gas fired appliances is critical to indoor air quality. Keep all furnaces and indoor air handlers out of the garage. Any leaks in the ductwork is a potential for car exhaust to enter the system an eventually the home. Install water heaters in the garage when possible. If a furnace or water heater must be installed in conditioned space, place it in a sealed closet with fresh air vents and combustion air vents.
Fireplaces – Wood burning fireplaces can be very inefficient. Installing doors, additional flue dampers, and better seals on the unit will reduce air loss to the outsides as well as reducing smoke and fumes from infiltrating the home. All gas fireplaces should be sealed units, vented to the outside, to prevent adverse affects on you and your family. The best case scenario is to just not install one if it will not be used.
HVAC Installation – While sealing the ducts and plenums is typically talked about in energy efficiency, it is also vital to indoor air quality. Without properly sealed ducts, the air handler will inevitably draw air from the crawl space, attic, floor system or other unconditioned space into the air you breath. A commonly missed area is the return air duct, especially if building cavities are lined to act as the duct. Ensure proper sealing of all HVAC components.
Filters – Filters are important to the system. The most important advice on filters is simple, replace/clean them regularly. Filters can be an entire discussion on their own and will be covered in another article.
Fans & Exhaust – Removing air from the house is also important. This can be as simple as a 50cfm fan in each bathroom or as complicated as a whole house fan on automatic timers or a humidistat. If fresh air is added to the house, venting air from the house is vital as well. Fans should always be run after showers, baths or other excessive use of hot water.
Chemicals – Chemical usage can also affect the air quality. During construction, utilizing products that have no noxious chemicals or low/no VOC sealant/paint. Following closing, encourage homeowners to find alternatives to bleach, ammonia and other chemical based cleaners.
This list is in no way all-inclusive, but it does give you some ideas where to start. As part of a green program, there are many affordable options to ensure better air quality. However, if the homeowner does not use the features, they will do little to improve the overall home health. Many innovative product reviews to come in the near future on this blog, so stay tuned.
Showing posts with label Energy Audit. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Energy Audit. Show all posts
Friday, January 16, 2009
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Green Your Home – Appliances & Maintenance
I finished up a few lingering items this weekend. Some would be considered typical maintenance items, and others are bigger items. So, without further adieu.
About 2 weeks ago, my wife asked me about the warranty on our dryer. It was taking progressively longer and longer to completely dry a load of clothes. So, this past weekend, I pulled out the dryer to check the vent pipe. With the dryer out and the pipe disconnect, I quickly saw the problem: a blocked vent.
This is an issue for several reasons.
For starters, with the dryer moved, I would probably have been divorced if I didn’t thoroughly clean the area behind the dryer before replacing it. So, a tip for the married gentlemen out there, completely remove old lint, socks, etc that have fallen behind the washer & dryer. Next, using UL181 foil tape, make any repairs to the outlet to ensure a proper seal. Reconnect both ends of the pipe and move the dryer back into place. If you have a side outlet, like the picture, I recommend installing a 90 at the dryer outlet instead of turning the flexible pipe.
The water heater in your home, unless you have upgraded to a tankless alternative, should be maintained once a year. Typically, this consists of connecting a hose to the spigot, located and bottom of the tank, and draining the tank. As water is heated, minerals free themselves from the water molecules and collect at the bottom of the tank. Over time, this can reduce the efficiency of the heating element and can reduce the amount of water heated in the tank.
By draining the tank, you allow the minerals to leave the tank and maintain efficiency. If you are concerned about the water you are wasting, drain it at a time of year when you can allow the tank to cool off and use the water on plants in the yard. You can also use this time to add insulation to the tank to reduce heat lose.
Replacing HVAC filters is a vital part of maintaining your furnace and A/C system. There are many options as to the filters you can purchase. More efficient filters can cause your blower to work to hard, reducing the efficiency of the fan. Less efficient filters will work against indoor air quality. There are also washable filters that do not have to be replaced, just washed as needed.
Replace filters per the packaging. More efficient filters boast a longer life. Typical filters should be replaced every 30 days. Washable filters should be washed monthly, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. If your filter cover starts to show signs of dust build-up, it has probably been to long since you replaced it.
About 2 weeks ago, my wife asked me about the warranty on our dryer. It was taking progressively longer and longer to completely dry a load of clothes. So, this past weekend, I pulled out the dryer to check the vent pipe. With the dryer out and the pipe disconnect, I quickly saw the problem: a blocked vent.
This is an issue for several reasons.
- First, it is a fire hazard. Lint in the pipe prevents hot exhaust from escaping and can potentially heat up and catch fire.
- Second, it reduces the efficiency of the dryer and can take 2-3 times longer to dry clothes, utilizing a lot more energy.
- Third, the long term effects on the dryer could cause damage to internal parts and shorten the lifespan of the dryer.
For starters, with the dryer moved, I would probably have been divorced if I didn’t thoroughly clean the area behind the dryer before replacing it. So, a tip for the married gentlemen out there, completely remove old lint, socks, etc that have fallen behind the washer & dryer. Next, using UL181 foil tape, make any repairs to the outlet to ensure a proper seal. Reconnect both ends of the pipe and move the dryer back into place. If you have a side outlet, like the picture, I recommend installing a 90 at the dryer outlet instead of turning the flexible pipe.
The water heater in your home, unless you have upgraded to a tankless alternative, should be maintained once a year. Typically, this consists of connecting a hose to the spigot, located and bottom of the tank, and draining the tank. As water is heated, minerals free themselves from the water molecules and collect at the bottom of the tank. Over time, this can reduce the efficiency of the heating element and can reduce the amount of water heated in the tank.
By draining the tank, you allow the minerals to leave the tank and maintain efficiency. If you are concerned about the water you are wasting, drain it at a time of year when you can allow the tank to cool off and use the water on plants in the yard. You can also use this time to add insulation to the tank to reduce heat lose.
Replacing HVAC filters is a vital part of maintaining your furnace and A/C system. There are many options as to the filters you can purchase. More efficient filters can cause your blower to work to hard, reducing the efficiency of the fan. Less efficient filters will work against indoor air quality. There are also washable filters that do not have to be replaced, just washed as needed.
Replace filters per the packaging. More efficient filters boast a longer life. Typical filters should be replaced every 30 days. Washable filters should be washed monthly, unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer. If your filter cover starts to show signs of dust build-up, it has probably been to long since you replaced it.
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Green Your Home – Sealing Doors, Windows and other openings
I have worked my way though more than half of my list and am getting a lot closer to a more energy efficient home. This article will focus on eliminating air leakage from the home to the outside/unconditioned space. We will start at the front door and work our way around the exterior of the home.
The front door can be a huge leak factor for the home. In my earlier list, I shared that door seals and sweeps are great place to find energy leakage. Looking at my front door I saw two immediate problems that needed correction: 1. Light was visible around the door where the door seals meet with the door; 2. The door sweep is falling apart. Both are easy to correct as it only requires replacing these items. When cutting the seals to fit, be careful not to cut them too short (this is why my door seals needed replacement).
For the sweep, if you are unsure what type of sweep to purchase, the u-shaped type is universal and can be installed on any standard width door. You can also purchase sweeps and seals that install on the door frame or the face of the door. A combination of these products will suffice if you cannot find seals and sweeps that match your door configuration.
Over time, caulking around windows will begin to crack, causing a potential area for leaks. Whether your home is Energy Star certified or not, this is a common maintenance item that needs to be completed by every homeowner. Simply remove any caulk that is cracked with a razor blade (this allows for a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere) and replace with either an elastomeric latex or silicone caulk. Some touch up paint might be required depending on how cleanly you can add the caulk and how much you needed to remove.
The next source of leakage are your outlets and switches. Any electrical box on an exterior wall needs to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Because it is cost prohibitive to check the housewrap (exterior water & air barrier), as brick or siding removal is required, it is more cost effective to seal the interior of the home against air loss (if you have a water leak, consult a professional for proper correction). Two methods exist to seal these openings: 1. Caulk the electrical box to the drywall; 2. Install foam gaskets under the cover plate (both pictured here).
As a general note, it is not recommended to caulk any cover plates to the wall, electrical or HVAC. If you ever need to service that outlet, you will need to remove the cover plate. It is also not as effective as sealing to the drywall at the junction box.
The last openings are in your floors and ceilings, the HVAC outlets. At every vent, a boot passes through the floor or the drywall. Unless properly sealed, a lot of air can be lost at this location. To correctly seal these, start by removing the grill and inspect the current connection. With the grill off, you can then caulk the boot to the drywall or subfloor and replace the grill. Again, we are not trying to stop airflow around the grill, but back through the drywall or subfloor, so always seal the boot, not the grill.
When building an Energy Star/Green home, all of these methods are common construction techniques to obtain these ratings. By retrofitting your home using these methods, you are taking one step closer to a more efficient home.
If you have any questions or comments, please post them, or email me directly at: thegreendecoder@me.com.
The front door can be a huge leak factor for the home. In my earlier list, I shared that door seals and sweeps are great place to find energy leakage. Looking at my front door I saw two immediate problems that needed correction: 1. Light was visible around the door where the door seals meet with the door; 2. The door sweep is falling apart. Both are easy to correct as it only requires replacing these items. When cutting the seals to fit, be careful not to cut them too short (this is why my door seals needed replacement).
For the sweep, if you are unsure what type of sweep to purchase, the u-shaped type is universal and can be installed on any standard width door. You can also purchase sweeps and seals that install on the door frame or the face of the door. A combination of these products will suffice if you cannot find seals and sweeps that match your door configuration.
Over time, caulking around windows will begin to crack, causing a potential area for leaks. Whether your home is Energy Star certified or not, this is a common maintenance item that needs to be completed by every homeowner. Simply remove any caulk that is cracked with a razor blade (this allows for a clean surface for the new caulk to adhere) and replace with either an elastomeric latex or silicone caulk. Some touch up paint might be required depending on how cleanly you can add the caulk and how much you needed to remove.
The next source of leakage are your outlets and switches. Any electrical box on an exterior wall needs to be sealed to prevent air leakage. Because it is cost prohibitive to check the housewrap (exterior water & air barrier), as brick or siding removal is required, it is more cost effective to seal the interior of the home against air loss (if you have a water leak, consult a professional for proper correction). Two methods exist to seal these openings: 1. Caulk the electrical box to the drywall; 2. Install foam gaskets under the cover plate (both pictured here).
As a general note, it is not recommended to caulk any cover plates to the wall, electrical or HVAC. If you ever need to service that outlet, you will need to remove the cover plate. It is also not as effective as sealing to the drywall at the junction box.The last openings are in your floors and ceilings, the HVAC outlets. At every vent, a boot passes through the floor or the drywall. Unless properly sealed, a lot of air can be lost at this location. To correctly seal these, start by removing the grill and inspect the current connection. With the grill off, you can then caulk the boot to the drywall or subfloor and replace the grill. Again, we are not trying to stop airflow around the grill, but back through the drywall or subfloor, so always seal the boot, not the grill.
When building an Energy Star/Green home, all of these methods are common construction techniques to obtain these ratings. By retrofitting your home using these methods, you are taking one step closer to a more efficient home. If you have any questions or comments, please post them, or email me directly at: thegreendecoder@me.com.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
Green Your Home – Crawl Space & Attic (Part 3)
On Monday, I inspected my crawlspace because of a mouse problem. When I was in the crawl space, I found an incomplete repair of the HVAC system. From the builder, I learned after closing there had been a problem with a duck in the crawlspace that died in the ductwork and was eventually removed and damaged items were “repaired”. When I did the inspection for the mouse problem, I found uncorrected damage, pictured here.
So, with a couple of assistants out of school for the week (my 7 and 5 year olds), we took our supplies and went under the house. Upon further inspection and preparation, we also found a disconnected duct to the utility room, an area always difficult to heat and cool since it was not getting any air. So, we set to work on the two repairs. First the hole, then the disconnected duct.
To fix the hole in the trunk line, I began by covering the entire hole with foil tape (UL 181 tape, the same type used for Energy Star Homes). With the hole covered, I wrapped the trunk line, including a previous repair, with duct insulation and completed with foil tape to secure it to the trunk line and seal off any holes/leaks.
The disconnected
duct was easily repaired as well. After cutting the end of each line, the two ends fit more closely together. With the foil tape and a little maneuvering, the two lines came nicely together. As I was completing the repair, the air turned on in the house and I was able to check the reconnected line for leaks. While chec
king, I noticed several other ducts where the duct tape had deteriorated enough to allow air to freely flow from the seams. I resealed those with foil tape as well (if I had mastic – a sticky sealant that will seal the lines air tight – it would have been an easier fix).
After a few more tests and cleanup below the house, the crawlspace was as good as new and will be a little cooler next time I go down there.
I also completed the insulating foam on the attic stair. This will reduce the amount of air loss around this opening.
Next article will discuss indoor sealing techniques.
So, with a couple of assistants out of school for the week (my 7 and 5 year olds), we took our supplies and went under the house. Upon further inspection and preparation, we also found a disconnected duct to the utility room, an area always difficult to heat and cool since it was not getting any air. So, we set to work on the two repairs. First the hole, then the disconnected duct.
To fix the hole in the trunk line, I began by covering the entire hole with foil tape (UL 181 tape, the same type used for Energy Star Homes). With the hole covered, I wrapped the trunk line, including a previous repair, with duct insulation and completed with foil tape to secure it to the trunk line and seal off any holes/leaks.
The disconnected
duct was easily repaired as well. After cutting the end of each line, the two ends fit more closely together. With the foil tape and a little maneuvering, the two lines came nicely together. As I was completing the repair, the air turned on in the house and I was able to check the reconnected line for leaks. While chec
king, I noticed several other ducts where the duct tape had deteriorated enough to allow air to freely flow from the seams. I resealed those with foil tape as well (if I had mastic – a sticky sealant that will seal the lines air tight – it would have been an easier fix).After a few more tests and cleanup below the house, the crawlspace was as good as new and will be a little cooler next time I go down there.
I also completed the insulating foam on the attic stair. This will reduce the amount of air loss around this opening.
Next article will discuss indoor sealing techniques.
Green Your Home – Preparation (Part 2)
The list is complete, so it is time for a trip to my local Home Depot. I spent about an hour at the store recording items, alternatives, costs, etc. I quickly found that with less than $100 I could do most of the work that needs to be done on my home. You can also do your shopping online, if you so desire, to save the time driving to and walking around the store, although some items are not available online at HomeDepot.com.
The items I purchased are as follows:
• Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks – This is expanding foam that can be used in any openings, holes, and cracks in the exterior shell of you home. Be careful where you us it because it will expand. Great Stuff should not be used around window frames, as it will affect the opening and closing of windows by pushing on the frame. This is great for any holes not filled in from electrical or plumbing lines entering the crawl space, garage or attic. [Price: $4.98/can]
• Caulking & Sealants – I found two products I like for this. DAP makes an
Elastomeric Latex sealant which will stretch with the moving and settling of you home. [Price: $3.37/Tube] You can also purchase GE Silicone II Window & Door. es the peace of mind it is silicone. Personally, I prefer latex because it is easier to paint after it dries. I buy this p rod uct by the case and use it for a number of projects around the house.
• Rubber Foam Weatherseal – It comes in a number of sizes depending on the application (I purchased ¾”x5/16”x10’). This can be used to seal any doors, whether to unconditioned space or an unused room/closet which will not be heated. Simply apply to the frame where the door will close and you have a better seal against airflow. [Price: $2.88]
• Replacement Door Seals – Most entry doors have weatherstipping that can be removed and replaced. This product will breakdown overtime allowing both air and, eventually, little critters (bugs and spider) easy access to your home. [Price: 3.99/strip]
• Replacement Door Sweep – This product attaches to the bottom of your door and serves a similar purpose as the above Door Seals. Many types are available. If you know the slot configuration on the bottom of your door you can purchase a door specific replacement to match your current sweep.
• Duct Insulation – For un-insulated or damaged insulation, you can install new insulation very easily, provided you have access to the ducts. Several versions are available (I purchased foil faced 12”x2”x15’). I recommend foil faced as it provides the best insulated value. [Price: $10.97] 
• UL181 Duct Tape – Different from typical duct tape, this is a foil tape specially designed to not breakdown overtime, or with heat/cold, as typical duct tape will. This product is used to seal any seams, gaps or tears in duct lines. [Price: $14.75/Roll]
• Air Filters – Replacement filters are important to the overall performance of your system. I will not go into great detail here as filters can be a discussion all of there own.
Your overall cost will vary depending on how much you purchase and what you need for your home. The associates at Home Depot were very helpful, so when in doubt ask for assistance.
Now the work can begin. Stay tuned as I bring you pictures, tips and tricks to using these products effectively in Greening your Home.
The items I purchased are as follows:
• Great Stuff Gaps & Cracks – This is expanding foam that can be used in any openings, holes, and cracks in the exterior shell of you home. Be careful where you us it because it will expand. Great Stuff should not be used around window frames, as it will affect the opening and closing of windows by pushing on the frame. This is great for any holes not filled in from electrical or plumbing lines entering the crawl space, garage or attic. [Price: $4.98/can]
• Caulking & Sealants – I found two products I like for this. DAP makes an
• Rubber Foam Weatherseal – It comes in a number of sizes depending on the application (I purchased ¾”x5/16”x10’). This can be used to seal any doors, whether to unconditioned space or an unused room/closet which will not be heated. Simply apply to the frame where the door will close and you have a better seal against airflow. [Price: $2.88]
• Replacement Door Sweep – This product attaches to the bottom of your door and serves a similar purpose as the above Door Seals. Many types are available. If you know the slot configuration on the bottom of your door you can purchase a door specific replacement to match your current sweep.
Your overall cost will vary depending on how much you purchase and what you need for your home. The associates at Home Depot were very helpful, so when in doubt ask for assistance.
Now the work can begin. Stay tuned as I bring you pictures, tips and tricks to using these products effectively in Greening your Home.
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Green Your Home - The Audit (Part 1)
A couple of weeks ago, I shared some tips to prepare your home and property for the winter. As I worked through some of those steps on my own home, I realized doing a “green inspection” on my home would help identify keys areas to help me go green. So, I set to work making a list of items that affect the energy efficiency of my home, without completely rebuilding or breaking the bank.
This is the first article in a series. Over the next few posts, I will share with you my own experience of inspecting, planning and completing steps to make my home more energy, resource and water efficient. I will also share the cost of doing the work yourself, purchasing the products at Home Depot, not through construction industry contacts. The Home Depot has been very beneficial in my research, as shown in other posts.
To the list, and steps taken to make that list.
1. Front Door Insulation – While my front door could be better, that is an expense I am not prepared for today. However, standing back and looking around the door, I realized I could see small areas of light where the weather-strip was damaged, missing or cut short.
2. Outlets and Switches – I have about 40 switches and outlets on the exterior walls of my home. On cold nights, these electrical outlets are perceptible colder then the rest of the wall and allow energy loss.
3. Windows – While most of my windows are sealed fairly well, there are areas around several windows where the caulking has cracked and needs to be replaced.
4. HVAC Ducts & Openings – In both the floors and ceilings, the duct boots are not sealed to the plywood or the drywall. Upon further inspection, some ductwork is need of re-sealing in the attic and crawlspace.
5. Attic Access – There is no weather-stripping or other seals in place to reduce air-leakage at the access.
6. Filters – My filters are in much need of replacement.
7. Toilets & Faucets – All toilet tanks are filling above the fill line and utilizing more water then needed. Faucets and showerheads are standard fixtures.
8. Exhaust Fans – Fans are installed, but not working properly or drawing enough air to properly ventilate bathrooms following a shower.
For informational purposes, several energy saving items have already been built into my home or replaced previous to this audit. Most of the incandescent lights have already been replaced. Programmable thermostats are also in use to save energy in heating and cooling. Where applicable, ENERGY STAR appliances are also installed in the home.
This is the first article in a series. Over the next few posts, I will share with you my own experience of inspecting, planning and completing steps to make my home more energy, resource and water efficient. I will also share the cost of doing the work yourself, purchasing the products at Home Depot, not through construction industry contacts. The Home Depot has been very beneficial in my research, as shown in other posts.
To the list, and steps taken to make that list.
1. Front Door Insulation – While my front door could be better, that is an expense I am not prepared for today. However, standing back and looking around the door, I realized I could see small areas of light where the weather-strip was damaged, missing or cut short.
2. Outlets and Switches – I have about 40 switches and outlets on the exterior walls of my home. On cold nights, these electrical outlets are perceptible colder then the rest of the wall and allow energy loss.
3. Windows – While most of my windows are sealed fairly well, there are areas around several windows where the caulking has cracked and needs to be replaced.
4. HVAC Ducts & Openings – In both the floors and ceilings, the duct boots are not sealed to the plywood or the drywall. Upon further inspection, some ductwork is need of re-sealing in the attic and crawlspace.
5. Attic Access – There is no weather-stripping or other seals in place to reduce air-leakage at the access.
6. Filters – My filters are in much need of replacement.
7. Toilets & Faucets – All toilet tanks are filling above the fill line and utilizing more water then needed. Faucets and showerheads are standard fixtures.
8. Exhaust Fans – Fans are installed, but not working properly or drawing enough air to properly ventilate bathrooms following a shower.
For informational purposes, several energy saving items have already been built into my home or replaced previous to this audit. Most of the incandescent lights have already been replaced. Programmable thermostats are also in use to save energy in heating and cooling. Where applicable, ENERGY STAR appliances are also installed in the home.
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